During
the earliest years of post revival surfing, the
sport slumbered in the subconscious of our
society as a little known, even less
understood, game that Polynesian peoples played
in the waves. For neophytes who witnessed a
wave being ridden, it seemed an unlikely
harnessing of wild natural forces, beckoning
in its grace and playfulness yet somehow
distant and unfathomable.
As an independent culture grew up
around that activity, detached from the
surrounding mainstream, and nurtured by a
deeply ingrained receptor in the human spirit
somehow titillated by the ride, the numbers of
surfers slowly grew increasingly noticeable.
But even as our numbers grew, the ride itself
remained an intangible. Riding waves left no
trace, produced no result, and depleted
nothing. Our wake disappeared behind us. Our
footprints were washed from the sand. No
residue of value from what we did was left to
prove it ever happened. Surfers held
significant rides in their memories and
sometimes stories of particularly epic days
were passed down via oral history, until they
too finally faded away.
In
the face of that intangible void a literature
began to emerge at first describing surfing to
those who hadn't seen it. The initial
non-Hawaiians to encounter Hawaii
made log entries that told of the Islanders
riding waves and explained their crafts and
described their movements with those of the
waves. Alexander Hume Ford wrote of surfing to
lure visitors.
Jack London added his experiences to
the sparsely recorded lore. A smattering of
articles continued to appear in various
periodicals, and
in
1935, Tom Blake's photos of surfing in
Waikiki
appeared in National
Geographic.
In 1937, a rotogravure section in the Los
Angeles Times featured color photos of surfing, an event that struck
California
's
surf tribe as a benchmark in societal
recognition. Beginning in 1936 and continuing
to 1940, Doc Ball began producing a series of
illustrated newsletters for the Palos Verdes
Surf Club entitled Ye
Old Spindrift
News,
written, captioned and illustrated by Doc
using small individual prints of his photos
which he, glued in place on each copy, he
distributed these charming newsletters to club
members, in the process, creating what was
essentially our sport's first periodical
surf publication. In 1946 Doc Ball would also
produce and distribute to his friends 500
copies of a hardbound book of his surf photos,
titled California
Surfriders.
Along this timeline of notable publishings
came Eugene Burdick's novel, The Ninth
Wave which described pre-war surfing
at Paddleboard Cove in the 1930s. Still,
mentions were infrequent enough that they were
big news among surfers when they occurred.
Over time, each one added to the illusion of a bit more tangible
presence for surfing. By the late 1950s, the
sport had grown enough to spawn attempts at
launching formal
periodicals devoted to its coverage.
Surfing –
The voice of
the
Surfing World and Reef
magazine were two such early, short lived
attempts, each having worthwhile elements but
with their timing slightly premature. In 1960,
Surfer magazine appeared, followed by a fleet
of competitors including Surfing Illustrated, International Surfing and the procreative Surf
Guide. The fad/boom phase of surfing that
began with the release of the movie Gidget in 1959 saw the U. S. surfing population swell into the
millions, finally creating the demand for a
significant body of surfing media of all types
to be produced over the following decades
including
cult documentaries and Hollywood films,
magazines, books, articles, fine art and
television programming. In recent years, the
graying of those stoked legions of teenaged
"boomers" of the 60s has created a
demand for the increasing numbers of books on
surfing which are new being published.
At
the time of the release of this landmark
surfing bibliography,
a large enough amount of surf literature has been
amassed that it covers that illusive,
ephemeral act of riding a wave with published
layers of skin so thick, that it now be placed
on a shelf. Have we become member of that
mainstream which we once shunned? If so, our
saving grace is that the simple, elemental joy
of
the ride lives on.